Tamina Therme, Bad Ragaz, Switzerland
Bad Ragaz has always been on my bucket list. In the 2020, during the pandemic, I spent a great deal of time reading (and dreaming) about spas, figuring out the perfect spa vacation for when I could finally leave the house. When the time was right, I made that one-in-a-lifetime trip. I mean twice— three times … no … The facilities are so amazing, it’s hard to resist any time I’m a train ride away.
Bad Ragaz is a beautiful town with a lot of public art. I highly recommend taking a meandering path from the train to the baths, or planning a stroll if you arrive by car. There are hidden gems everywhere, mostly sculptures and installations, but an odd mural too.
Random installation I walked by (Artist: Carla Hohmeister)
Once I tore myself away from the the scenery and historic buildings, I entered the Tamina Therme. I’ve always found the baths in Bad Ragaz confusing, but I’ve learned there’s two facilities: the Tamina Therme, which are public baths and saundas that anyone can use by paying an entry fee (though reservations are recommended) and the baths at the Grand Resort Bad Ragaz, which are available to hotel guests and through day packages. For this review, I visited the Tamina Therme.
Tamina Therme interior
I checked in quickly, renting a robe and towel for 20 CHF, though with a bit of confusion. I’ve consistently found that the Tamina’s employees don’t speak much English, so I made a point of reviewing a few German “spa words” before I arrived.
The changing area is mixed gender, but it cleverly designed so you change in a private area, then walk out to the lockers.
I started out with the pool area, which is swimwear-required. There are several indoor pools with large windows, and a large outdoor pool with swim-in access. The outdoor view is phenomenal, especially in autumn, and the indoor pools had lots of jets and fountains, and they periodically switched on and off, which created some calm moments.
Autumn view near the baths (not from this trip)
Bad Ragaz has the best water of any thermalbad I’ve visited. Technically classified as chloride-hydrogen carbonate-sulphate water, it has a thick, fizzy feel. My skin is always silky after a few minutes bathing in it, and my sore muscles are soothed. There’s only two downsides. First, the baths are often busy, even outside of peak season, and there’s a lot of families, which is great if you have kids with you, but can make it more difficult to relax otherwise. Second, the water is fairly cold. It comes from its source, the Tamina Gorge, at 36.5 C, and while some of the pools are heated further, they are small compared to the cooler ones. As far as I can tell, the Tamina Therme doesn’t adjust the pool temperature seasonally, like some spas do.
After much soaking, I moved onto Sauna World, the real jewel of the spa. It is an adult-only, mixed gender, textile free sauna area, with many sauna and bath features from around the word. There’s an extra hot Finnish sauna, a cool infared sauna, steam baths, footbaths and rows of unique showers, such as one that simulates dumping a bucket of water on your head. There’s even an outdoor area where you can sunbathe in the buff, and a cafe where you can eat in your robe, or get food and drink to enjoy outdoors.
It’s hard to describe the vibe that makes Sauna World so great, but I’ll try. Everyone there is chill and friendly, even if you don’t speak the same language (which you probably wont). No one is creepy, even a bit. Etiquette is immaculate, in fact, staff once politely spoke to me for sitting in the sauna on my bath robe instead of a towel.
The Tamina Therme’s spa programme was really something special. They consistently plan the best infusions I have ever experienced. The atmosphere is perfect: dark, ancient and meditative, with a sense of collectivism, whether it is a high-energy musical infusion or a silent classic infusion. They use high-quality oils, and even scents I don’t usually like smelled amazing.
First up was a classic bergamot infusion, where the host fanned different citrus oils into each guest’s nostrils, then a high-energy Spring Awakening with music and fanning of wildflower scents that was close to dance. Finally, I sweated through a meditative Lavender Ritual, with calming words and soft music. Other guided activities, such as peeling (self salt exfoliation) and pirts (a self massage ritual involving whisking your body with sticks) are also available.
Between infusions, I tried a spa treatment: the Haki Purna massage. Haki is a massage modality designed to help those with overdeveloped upperbody muscles, usually due excessive time spent sitting at a desk (which I’m certainly guilty of).
I mentioned I was an English speaker when I booked, and was delighted to discover my therapist spoke excellent English. She went through my concerns (stiff back and neck) and asked questions about my health history, showing exceptional knowledge medical conditions I mentioned.
The treatment started at the feet, with gentle touching that became firm, then moved upwards. My limbs were stretched, relieving tension. By the end, I was so relaxed I barely wanted to leave the table. This is certainly a treatment I would do again if I return.
Overall, if you have the chance to go to Bad Ragaz, go to Bad Ragaz. The Tamina Therme is excellent, especially the textile free areas. Now, you might be wondering whether you should visit the Tamina Therme or the Grand Resort. I’ve tried both, and I prefer the Tamina Therme. The Grand Hotel’s facilities are also wonderful, but they focus on being visually stunning over relaxing, and there is no spa programme. Hotel guests can go to the Tamina Therme for a discounted fee, and there’s a direct path indoors, so it’s convenient if you have unlimited funds. But you can save a lot of money just going to the Tamina Therme for a day trip, and have almost as good a time.
Don’t forget to buy some quince jellies and dark chocolate from the Fassler Confiserie to snack on during the train ride home.
I visited the Tamina Therme in Bag Ragaz, Switzerland.
I paid 160 CHF for a 90 minute massage, 92 CHF for an entry ticket with no wait time and 20 CHF for robe and towel rental.
I visited in Spring.
